Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is located in Northwest Arkansas – adjacent to the stunning Buffalo National River. HCR offers some of the finest sandstone in Arkansas with nearly 420 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14, the majority of which are Sport, with a few Trad routes in the mix. BETA Fund works in collaboration with the private landowners and Arkansas Climbers Coalition to preserve this iconic climbing area.

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is located in Northwest Arkansas – adjacent to the stunning Buffalo National River. HCR offers some of the finest sandstone in Arkansas with nearly 420 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14, the majority of which are Sport, with a few Trad routes in the mix. BETA Fund works in collaboration with the private landowners and Arkansas Climbers Coalition to preserve this iconic climbing area.

Directions

To get to The Westside, take the trail 100 ft. to the left that diagonals uphill on stairs to the upper tier of cabins. From the upper leftmost cabin, take the unmarked trail to its left. After 300 feet this trail intersects with another trail just 20 ft below the West Bench road; go left. In 450 feet this road dead-ends at a climber’s trail signed for the “Confederate Cracks and Crackhouse Alley”. You’re at the far left end of The West Side and the climbing areas go from Up Your Buttress to Public Access to the Walls of Moria. This area is where you’ll also find bouldering areas – The North Idahos and South Idahos.

To get to The Northwest Crags, park in the campground lot. Find the shower house and pavilion and use these two landmarks as your starting point. The Ren and Stimpy Wall will be the farthest left from the shower house and the Prophecy Wall is right next door. You can take the roads to get to these areas or take the trail between the shower house and pavilion and when it dead ends at West Bench Road, turn left. That same trail and road will take you past Titanic Boulder and if you turn right when you dead end at West Bench Road, you’ll find another trail a short way down the road that will lead you to Doomsday Wall.

The approach to HCR’s most popular climbing area, The North Forty and The Land Beyond starts in the campground. Follow the road that runs past the shower house and pavilion uphill and right before you turn right and cross the creek you’ll pass the Sour Girl Boulder. Keep going uphill and soon you’ll find a network of trails that connect Corridor Area, Venus Alcove, Circus Wall, Walls of Controversy, Greatest Show Wall, Crimp Scampi Area, and Groovy Area. Kindergarten Boulder marks the boundary between North Forty and Land Beyond. If you want to get straight to the Land Beyond, take the suspension bridge from the campground and follow the trail up to the crag, past Kindergarten Boulder, and turn right.

The Northeast Crags are accessible from the northern end of the East Bench Road and are easiest to approach from the North Pullout parking area, the first road on the left as you drive from the Trading Co. back up the road that leads you to the front gates. Take the road from the parking lot until you see a left turn onto a loop trail. This will take you to the Goat Cave area. Continue along the main trail and a smaller trail will break off and cross the creek. This trail will lead you to the Mullet Buttress and the Land of the Lost. If you’re looking for the Sloping Joe Boulder or Undertow Boulder, stay close to the main loop trail by Goat Cave. Sloping Joe Boulder will be near the end of the loop and to the right. Undertow Boulder will be down a smaller trail that leads off from the end of the loop.

The Eastside is most commonly approached from the Trading Co. Follow the main road from the Trading Co. parking lot down to East Bench Road. Several small trails cut across leading directly to this area. New Meadow is the farthest left on the wall and followed closely by the Middle East. Magoo Rock stands away from the main wall and to the far right, next to the HCR property line, are the Southeast Crags.

Guidebook

Several guidebooks for HCR climbing and other established areas in Arkansas currently exist. These resources can be found in print, online, and in local retail shops.  Call HCR Trading Post at the ranch. They typically stock additional guidebooks for purchase.