Washington State Park climbing bluff is located just one hour south of St. Louis, Missouri on land owned by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources Division of State Parks. The nearest town is De Soto. There are two main entrances into Washington State Park from Hwy 21.

Approaching from the North:

• Travel south on Hwy 21 through Hillsboro and De Soto.
• Drive past the Park’s river access.
• Turn right/north into the main entrance. You’ll pass the petroglyph site, park office, and Thunderbird lodge.
• Turn right/north onto Park Road and follow for approximately ¼ mile.

Approaching from the South:

• Travel north on Hwy 21 through Potosi.
• Turn left/north into the main entrance. A Dollar General is at the opposite side of the road.
• Traveling north into the park, you’ll pass the park campground.
• Turn left/north onto Park Road and follow for approximately ¼ mile.

Walk about 5 to 10 minutes to find the bluff facing east and the Big River.

• See WARNING notice below
• Call 911 for all medical emergencies
• Loose rock is present. Use extreme caution and climb on designated routes only.
• No access is allowed on top of the bluff.
• Helmets are strongly encouraged at all times for all climbers, belayers, and spectators.
• Do not sling trees or other natural features.
• No installation of fixed hardware.
• Use climbing chalk to protect the limestone from polishing due to natural oils in your skin and sweat.
• Use natural bristle brushes to clean holds of dirt, debris, and excess chalk. No wire or stiff bristle brushes allowed as they carve into rock and degrade holds.
• Use caution during warmer months and be aware of snakes, ticks, and wildlife.
• No bathrooms available. Plan accordingly.
• Leashed dogs are allowed at Washington State Park, but not recommended at the climbing area.
• The bluff faces east with morning and mid-day sun exposure and in the shade by mid-afternoon.
• Climbing is only allowed at the designated bluff along the Big River. Do not climb in any other areas of Washington State Park.

Camping

Camping is available within Washington State Park. Information and reservations may be made here: https://mostateparks.com/campgrounds/washington-state-park

WARNING

By climbing at Washington State Park, I have read, acknowledged, and agree to the following:

I AM SOLELY RESPONSIBLE AND PERSONALLY ASSUME ALL RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH TO MYSELF AND/OR OTHERS ARISING OUT OF MY USE OF WASHINGTON STATE PARK. I understand that climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death arising from hiking, climbing, loose rock, equipment failure, environmental conditions, misuse, and other risks and hazards associated with rock climbing and outdoor activities. Wearing a helmet does not eliminate the dangers associated with any activity, but in certain instances, a helmet can reduce the risk of permanent injury or death. Helmets are recommended and I understand that if I choose not to wear a helmet I do so at my own risk. Climbing at Washington State Park is intended for only competent and responsible climbers who know how to climb, clean, and belay properly. Proper training is essential before climbing at Washington State Park.

Learn more about Washington State Park: https://mostateparks.com/park/washington-state-park

As more routes are added, this guide will be updated. The routes listed in this zone are listed from left to right as you approach on the trail.
1. Gonna Leave You (5.4) – Slab climb on pockets. First climbed as a boulder problem called skittles on the roof (4 bolts and 2 anchors).
2. Dandelion (5.9) – Vertical climb with alternative options using pockets on the left or face moves on the right. (4 bolts and 2 anchors)
3. Wasbenator (5.11d) – Dihedral climb with a cryptic sequence. For full value stay on-route and avoid larger jugs (out left) at the top. (5 bolts and 2 anchors)
4. White Fang (13a) – Start on Wasbenator and climb right at the obvious section with boulder crux mid- way. More ascents are needed to confirm the grade. (#? bolts and 2 anchors)
5. Farm Challenge (12c/d) – Hard start, leads the way to easier climbing after the 1 st bolt. More ascents are needed to confirm the grade. (6 bolts and 2 anchors)
6. Screaming Eagle (13b) – Hard technical climbing till the 2 nd bolt. Keep it together for the rest of the climb. (7 bolts and 2 anchors)
7. Wicked Googily (CURRENTLY CLOSED and bolts removed.) The page will be updated when the route is open.
8. Tangerine (12d or possibly 13a if you need it) – Located in the middle of wall marked by bright orange-streaked rock. Climb delicate, then powerful moves with a spicy crux. (8 bolts and 2 anchors)
9. Thunderbird (13a) (CURRENTLY CLOSED) – Starts in the overhang cave. Tall start to get access to high pocket, then thuggish moves… with a rad lie back mid-route. More ascents are needed to confirm the grade. The page will be updated when the route is open.
10. Perfect Dark (12a) – Bouldering start out of the cave onto a perfect slab climb. (4 bolts and 2 anchors)